7TH APRIL 2013 - NULLARBOR, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Due to the change of clocks we do not hurry to set off today, but I have been up early to try & catch the sunrise over the water & cliffs. Not as good as I hoped but a lovely time to be up with another ardent photographer joining me on the lookout, both wrapped for the coolish morning. A wind came up overnight which has mostly abated, but I did hear it sighing through all the caravans in the dark of night, or who knows, perhaps it was the singing of some of the ancient indigenous people who lived here long, long ago.

Only a 70km drive to the border this morning & yes they were thorough. As we pulled into the inspection bay, I jumped out of the car to get the odd bits I had left to hand over. The woman inspector was not pleased & I had to stand by her & Stu while she searched the car, & the locker of the van. The reason being that a ‘when I see a woman so keen to get into her van she is usually trying to hide something’. I assured her I was trying to do the opposite & she was OK after that still searched the van thoroughly & sadly took my frozen lemon slices as they still had some seeds in them. B.....!

The scenery has now changed a bit as we actually drive up a hill & through a small pass of the Hampton Tablelands which now follow us on one side & the ocean (now unseen) on the other. Now & again the road widens right out as it is an emergency landing strip for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

I spotted a large wedgetailed eagle on the side of the road sitting protectively on it’s prey. There are a number of dead roos evident again which we haven’t seen for a few days. The road is so flat here that it gives a mirage impression of water at the end of it. It’s 35deg but quite comfortable as it is such a dry heat. We actually saw a police car today, waiting patiently to catch someone speeding but we haven’t seen anyone in all our travels. We are lucky with the wind direction again which is a blessing for fuel conservation – now up to $1.92. There are loads of groups of motorbikes on the road coming toward us – what a distance to ride one of those. It must be so hot in all that gear. These roads are so beautifully made, not a pothole anywhere, no crumbling edges & plenty of rest areas again. We actually saw some pretty grasses roadside too, & in one part some lovely little purple wildflowers. In the afternoon the road is really quite busy & Stu has to pull over for 4 roadtrains. The difficulty on these long, straight roads is that it’s almost impossible  to see the traffic behind us but the roadtrains have no difficulty passing, it's just nice for Stu to know they are there & then he can pull over. 

AT Caiguna we have to fuel up again at $1.98. All these places have names but they are only roadhouses, some with motels & a restaurant & caravan park. Some have showers for a $1 coin in the slot which is great if your water is getting too low to use the van shower.

The longest straight road in Australia
 

From Caiguna to Belladonia is the longest straight stretch of road in Australia – 145.6 kms, actually just like one big long motorway.    It would be so easy to fall asleep. I do sometimes but then I am not the driver. There have been an assortment of vehicles, from cyclists (only a few ), to motorcycles & a tricycle with trailer.  It hs been our longest day of driving today – 491 kms & really pleased to stop for the day at quite a large rest area with lots of space to be on our own , well back from the road & noise of trucks at night. There is a nice cool breeze which we are glad of as there aren’t many trees & it is still very hot.

Up early again - must say it is really nice to be about before it gets too hot.  We have now driven about 6,000 kms already in one month but a long way to go yet.  The road is no longer so flat, in fact it is quite 'dippy' (undulating).   Today we hope to get within 150kms of Esperance, stopping first at Norseman, yet another little dying town.  It has once been prosperous due to the gold mining in the 1880's but has had it's ups & downs since.  Though there is still one small goldmine working, it is obvious it is not enough to keep the area going.  The story of how they first found gold here is quite an amusing one, in that the first gold nugget was found in the hoof of a horse who happened to be called 'Norseman'.  There is now a beautiful bronze statue of him in the town.   We drive up a lookout point here & there is a good view of quite large salt lakes which surround the area.

Tailings from Gold Mine
 

Norseman the golden hoofed horse
 

  It is here that the Nullabor ends - Yay!!!  Even though I say that the journey has been a surprise - not the same all the way & this latter part quite nice , especially as we pass through the Fraser Range which had the first sheep station settled on the Nullabor.  It is surrounded by the worlld's largest Eucalypt hardwood forest.  There were some lovely trees in this latter section with gorgeous sienna coloured trunks, shiny in the sun.  Apparently they are called Gimlet trees.  So despite Nullabor meaning 'treeless plain ' it isn't totally treeless at all. 

  Looking forward to Esperance but one more overnight stop & it proves to be a lovely one in a very large freebie called Bromus Dam.  This would be the largest freebie we have encountered & very pretty.   It was built by the Railway Company to provide water for the steam trains in the early days.  Surprisingly there are few vans here so we are all spread out with plenty of room & privacy.  However we soon discover that it's not entirely paradise  due to the proliferation of flies, -  tiny ones who like to just sit on your back or your face as you walk, slightly bigger ones who like to give you a nip, & then there is  'Darth Vader' the large black March Flies who really know how to get your attention. Really quite painful.  Stu tried stamping his feet as we sat outside to discourage them but all he achieved was to disturb many, many ants instead, who then found their way up the legs of our chairs.  Last straw, we heade into the van.  During a walk we came across a couple pulling a small net out of the water, & it turns out they are fishing for yabbies (little freshwater crayfish).  His method is to put the net in & check it every half hour or so, take out the catch & repeat this until he gets the quantity he wants for a feed - 'entrees' for dinnertime.  They are the  size of a large king prawn.

Bromus Dam freebie camp site
 

 

Aussie Yabbies