6TH APRIL 2013 – NULLABOR, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

Another day on the road, & can’t do it without fuel. Nunroo Roadhouse fuel $1.55 & we have to make sure we keep the tanks full,, firstly while it is

reasonably priced, & secondly you can’t be sure how far to the next fuelstop.

This morning we sited the ‘dog fence’ which is one of the longest continuous fences in the world built to keep wild dingoes out of the pastoral lands; all 5,614 kms of it. It begins in Queensland & extends to the Great Australian Bight in South Australia. Between Nundroo & Yalata on the Eyre Highway there is a grid across the road which is also part of the fence. On our last trip to Australia 2 years ago we sighted them in Coober Pedy.

This part of the Nullarbor is Aboriginal Reserve owned by the Yalata tribe & has a lot more trees & shrubs. Lots of roadtrains on the highway this morning – you sure know when they pass you – one actually moved Stu’s outside mirror out of place with the wind it created. By morning tea break it is 25deg & very pleasant. We are now onto the real plains at the eastern end with a huge flat horizon, cloudless blue sky & a long ............ flat road Did you know that Nullarbor means ‘treeless plain’? On arrival at the Nullabor Roadhouse it is like peak hour rush with cars, caravans & road trains all queueing for fuel ($2.06).

Lucky we got ours earlier today so just stop for our morning cuppa & move on. There seem to be a number of roadtrains who arrive minus trailers & swap with one who has come from the opposite direction. I think some also swap full loads. Seems a good system to cut down on driving those great distances.

Before we know it we are at the ‘Head of the Bight’ (Great Australian Bight) which is reknowned for being one of the perfect spots for seeing the annual migration of the Southern Right Whales. Unfortunately we are too early as the normal time is May-October, calving time for these very special whales who travel from the Southern Ocean to warmer climes for that purpose. Sometimes as many as 50 whales can be seen with their calves. Must be a magnificent sight & one which we hope we will be lucky to see somewhere further up the coast. I did hear that one or two have been already been sighted somewhere so we are hoping it will be an early season just for us. Anyway whales or no whales this is a stunning spot with ultramarine ocean on the horizon turning to acquarine nearer the coast contrasted by the frothy whiteness of the breaking waves on the rocks. Nature finishes the picture with the stunning red ‘Bundar Cliffs’ which extend for over 900kms along the Bight. Fortunately there is a wonderful fenced boardwalk & several viewing platforms from which to take those ever important pics.

Bunda Cliffs

Our rest area for the night is further along the coast also on the cliff tops. It has no facilities & is swarming with those pesky little flies so no fun sitting outside. No time for that for poor Stu anyway, as we have been having problems with our fridge which has not been operating on power for some time, but has now decided not to operate on gas – quite a problem when there are no towns to get someone to look at it. Stu being the quintessential handyman decides to look at it himself & with the help of a couple of other male vanners who have experienced the same problem, eventually gets it working again. Turns out to be dirt on the igniter from the dirt tracks we have been on. Obviously it will be maintained a little better for the rest of the trip. We have just discovered that daylight saving ends tonight for S.A. so we have change our clocks back by an hour. Just to confuse the matter, because we cross into WA tomorrow, we also have to change to WA time, so in all it is 2.5hrs difference. Don’t worry if you’re confused course we sure are. Thank heavens for the phone & the GPS who both do it all automatically – we can’t even remember what day of the week it is! Because WA have a strict Quarantine & having experienced the SA one, I have had to organise things better & make sure I have no fruit or vegies to lose. In order to do that it’s a big stirfry of all the vegies tonight, plus I freeze some broccoli & my lemon & lime slices (not hard to guess what they are for)??? The potatoes are cooked ready to fry up afterwards. The onions (2) I gave up on.

Sunset from free camp area

Bunda Cliffs at Sunrise